The article is casting them in a needlessly antagonistic light. The "more water then..." claim is sourced from this (far superior) article [1], which makes clear that for one, it's saying more water than the
houses in LA, not the city (residential use seems to be approx 2x commercial use), and for two this is for
every farm these people own in CA, not just the pistachios. So that includes POM Pomegranate juice, Wonderful Pistachios, Cuties Clementines, and some almonds. Indeed, the owner of the second largest produce company in America might be expected to use water on the same level as the residents of the second largest city in America.
That's not to say they're free from ridicule: one particularly damning tidbit in the article linked below outlines a plan by which they bought water from the state for pennies on the dollar then sold it back to the taxpayers at a massive profit. Anyone paying water bills or taxes in CA could find just cause to be upset about that.
[1] https://www.motherjones.com/environment/2016/08/lynda-stewar...