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Comment by js2 | Hacker News Reader

> But, between 2013 and 2017, things were a complete mess. In-car systems were too integrated to be replaceable with a third party 2-DIN unit, but too primitive to run carplay/AA

Mazda sells a retrofit kit for their 2014 (Mazda 3) / 2016 (other models) and newer cars that didn't come with native CP/AA. It's about $200 and DIY if you're the least bit handy:

https://mazdaparts.org/mazda-3-smartphone-mirroring-kit.html

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I have installed that unit but I wouldn't characterize it as for the "least bit handy". It involves removing all the panels from the screen, center console, and shifter, and fishing some wiring behind the climate controls. Definitely do-able, but not for the faint of heart. The wiring is easy to connect, to be sure, Japanese are outstanding at that. Totally worth the money. I just wish I could put in one of the factory backup cameras, neither the dealer nor my trusted local stereo shop will do that for me.

That's fair.

You also have to update the software first, which is a 45 minute process that requires touching the brake pedal every 20 minutes to prevent the head unit from going to sleep.

I've installed it twice: a few years ago in a CX-9 and two-weeks ago in a Mazda 3. There's YouTube videos for it so you know what you're getting yourself into. I found the procedure straight-forward. Mostly you need to know which parts to pull off and where the bolts, clips and fasteners are. If you're someone who'd install their own dash cam, you can probably do it.

Having done this recently, the pro tip is that you can pop out the old USB/SD panel by inserting a hook pick into the holes on the front and yanking. It will pop the plastic faceplate off, and then you can access the clips to remove the entire unit. Mine was actually fine and I was able to pop the faceplate back on if I wanted to reuse it (not sure why I would), but no guarantee.

Turned it into a 15 minute job vs probably an hour+ of messing with the center console. Babysitting the software update takes the most time.

Very much depends on the model, trim level, and generation. Even on the Mazda 3, the location of the USB hub depends on whether the car has a CD player.

I did the "drill holes in the front of the USB hub" trick so I didn't have to remove the console. But then I dropped a socket and ended up having to remove the console to retrieve it and it only took maybe 15 minutes. I could do it again in 5 knowing all the steps.

For other brands, there are third party retrofits that replace the integrated stereo with a DIN mount, or with a carplay compatible head unit. The software on those is usually clunky, but it's not like OEM car head units are known for their UX.

This is so cool, I have a compatible Mazda and never thought to check if such an upgrade existed. Have ordered the kit and very excited. Thanks!

Sadly my 2014 CX-5 is not supported.

Sorry if I got your hopes up. I edited my comment to be more accurate. I didn't realize 2014 only applied to the Mazda 3 and it's 2016 for the other models.

I replaced my 2014 CX-5 head unit with a 3rd party unit which supports CarPlay/AA, integrates with the steering controls, the factory Bose amplifier and retains the ability to change the car settings through the head unit. Took about 2 1/2 hours to install it.

Which head unit is that? I looked into it years ago but I definitely couldn't find one that still allowed you to change the car settings and I felt that was a bit of non-starter.

It is a Kenwood. The integration is done through an iDatalink Maesteo RR unit. They work with a wide range of cars and head units not just Kenwood. When you get the iDatalink module you connect it to your computer via usb, tell it which model car, head unit and wiring harness you have. It programs it for that combination. If you go to Crutchfield and tell it which car you have it will display a list of head units which will work with your car. Once you select a head unit it will present you with an installation package needed. The packages include the 2-din adapter, trim pieces, wiring harnesses and the iDatalink unit. It will also tell you what functionality the kit will allow. You can add it all to your order with a single click. I also upgraded the head unit in my 2017 Outback this way. You will need to run a new microphone because the one which comes with the car is powered. It took me 10 minutes to replace the factory one and run the cable through the headliner and down the pillar. Super easy. You will also need to replace the factory gps antenna. The factory one is located with the middle front speaker which is directly above where the head unit goes. Your new head unit will come with a microphone and gps antenna.

I believe other car audio sites will similarly present you with installation packages. I’ve been using Crutchfield since I replaced the stereo in my 1st car in 1985 so that is who I went with.

Thank you. This is helpful information on how it works; I did a bunch of googling after your last comment (and went to Crutchfield) but not much explanation how it could work.

Seems like there are third party options if you google it

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