Thinking to arbitrary depth sounds like Monte Carlo tree search? Which is often implemented in conjunction with RL. And working memory I think is a matter of the architecture you use in conjunction with RL, agree that transformers aren't very helpful for this.
I think what you call 'trial and error', is what I intuitively think of RL as doing.
AlphaProof runs an RL algorithm during training, AND at inference time. When given an olympiad problem, it generates many variations on that problem, tries to solve them, and then uses RL to effectively finetune itself on the particular problem currently being solved. Note again that this process is done at inference time, not just training.
And AlphaProof uses an LLM to generate the Lean proofs, and uses RL to train this LLM. So it kinda strikes me as a type error to say that DeepMind have somehow abandoned RL in favour of LLMs? Note this Demis tweet https://x.com/demishassabis/status/1816596568398545149 where it seems like he is saying that they are going to combine some of this RL stuff with the main gemini models.