Agreed that a C++ API for qml would be great. qml by itself is great though, I don't see why it is unweildy. If anything it's unpolished, there is stuff that is more difficult than it should be, but it's miles ahead of what there was before imo.
Not sure how "QML in C++" would look like, but it doesn't sound pretty. Recently someone published a declarative UI inside C++[1] (without a different syntax) but I felt a bit off with this approach. Maybe that's something you mean?