That depends on what the zero proof spirit is aiming for. I've found some of them are not very good alone because they're trying to replicate a particular flavor in the cocktail, but others (ex. Monday's Gin) are great with just ice. We keep a bottle of it around for a fun evening beverage.
The "savory non-tea zero proof beverage" for the evening is a difficult thing to come by. That's the space these fake spirits are trying to fill.
The other trick is making the drink last for as long as you can. As soon as the drink is finished you are required to obtain another one. But nobody needs to drink multiple litres of fluid in the space of a few hours, plus it's expensive. So I take tiny sips and make half a litre last an hour or longer.
https://drinkfreespirits.com/collections/non-alcoholic-spiri...
They don't really make these things because they're a good idea. They do them because it's cheaper than not doing them.
Why wouldn't I want to do this?