JetBrains makes several IDEs competitive with VsCode, but not free.

I also stopped using VSCode because of the bloat, which seems mainly caused by node + npm on the remote server. And I've seen it consume all the RAM and too much CPU for an editor.

I know you already rejected Neovim as too much a step back. I went back to plain vim with ripgrep and ctags, ssh/mosh with tmux, my long-time setup, and I'm good with that. No LSP but I can live without that, vim Omni-complete usually good enough.