Therefore, 1st: Heating/cooling cycles from your HVAC are fighting these objects because they don't mix at the same speed as other objects (e.g., the air itself), so you end up with gradients across objects; people rate this feels unpleasant.
2nd: Mechanical equipment tends to operate more efficiently under constant load compared to constant start and stop cycles.
With #1 and #2, you can just heat constantly to increase both the uniformity of heating across objects and also the efficiency of the mechanical equipment's energy conversion.
There's a 3rd point, which, really, is just a sneaky way of reframing #1 and #2, and that is that you can also lower your setpoint and still have a subjectively superior comfort perception compared to a cyclic system. It drives home the point to say "constant 68F feels more comfortable than intermittent 72F." But it also invites the complaint about constant versus intermittent energy use, right? So I think just detailing #1 and #2 is better.
One thing I missed in summary is the concept of general radiant temperature gradient. It's not only about the gradient for conduction, but for radiation (and convection). So you could probably improve my summary by talking about any gradient between different objects in the environment and their EM, which feels unpleasant (but I think it had value in its reduction of the problem, too).
That said, heat loss is through exterior surfaces so you really want to avoid spot heating of poorly insulated exterior walls. Thus the design of baseboard heaters can make a larger impact than you’d think.
For a furnace you’re talking fractions of a percent difference in efficiency across a wide temperature range so by far the most critical issue is total heat losses to the outside. A heat pump’s efficiency is far more variable making total losses to the outside less important.
Redundancy is critical in areas that get really cold. That may eventually mean turning to hydrogen, but a backup gas furnace for a well insulated home really isn’t a major CO2 contributor. More relevant to the discussion it further reduces the impact of minor changes in efficiency or comfort.
Wood stoves require you to physically be home and are kind of a pain to use thus make a poor backup on their own, though a solid 2nd backup.
PS: Most areas are better off with solar thermal + heat pumps. Solar thermal however requires sunlight which not everyone gets in the depth of winter.
Work out the amount of solar + batteries you need in the winter when the power goes out and your COP is less than 2 because it’s very cold and you need more BTU’s than normal because it’s very cold. Solar thermal is just significantly cheaper on a large home in a cold climate.
Particularly in temperatures where the heat pump is at/under 2.0 COP for a few dozen hours per year, an electric boiler makes a great deal of sense. It's almost as clean as the heat pump in the extremely rare times when it's needed for supplementation due to extreme cold temps, can allow for a more suitably sized heat pump to cover the 99% of heating hours [meaning greater efficiency there], is extremely reliable due to its simplicity, is fully automatable with existing controls, doesn't require local gas supply network, and is a pretty good match for a heat pump.