No, as I said, they don't because of the interchange fees limit: they simply don't have money to finance any perks. Sometimes you get travel insurance, with the card that charges 200 EUR annual fee, sometimes you get some rewards program, where you collect the points, but those points are typically valued at 0.0001 cent, so no one really bothers earning them. Credit cards in Europe are really boring, commodity products, not status symbols or coupon books.
> assuming that I pay 100% of the fees, which of course isn't true; the merchant pays some of that.
You are paying that one way or the other: merchant will pass their fees on you by raising prices.