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is edX still free for auditing?

They are free to audit but time limited. After a couple of months you can no longer see the course content.

I haven't logged in edX in long time but as per this article it is no longer free.

Only parts are paywalled, I think? Looks like it's specifically tests and such (graded assignments) that are affected.

Which are where you learn.

Depending on the subject and the person, but agreed in the general case.