Also:

Almost weirdly light, to my oh-so-utterly-accustomed-to-the-heft-of-the-iPhone-4(S) hands.

I think the thing that bugs me is the tacit admission that he hasn't even tried any other devices. I own (although no longer use) a Samsung Focus S- a 4.3" Windows Phone. Weight? 110g. At this point the Focus S hardly a new phone- Apple was behind the times and is just catching up, it's not blazing ahead.

But then, Gruber is only reviewing this for people that have already decided they want one, so the bar is lower.