Because I'm an old man I found Ebert's actual reviews useful, he was reviewing movies in a period when I watched many more than I do now - and I think the reason they were useful gives us an insight here.
Roger Ebert did not like the same movies I did, not even close - but I was able to triangulate from his perspective to know better how I might feel about the movie before I watched it, based on his brief review.
I think that in a similar respect reviews by Yahtzee Croshaw work for me. I don't experience games the same way, but I get a better idea of how I would find the game from his video review than some random game journo 4/5 stars rating.