KSPS was my favourite surfing game growing up. What I dislike about it though is the infinite/perfect waves (always a truck-sized barrel opened, you can do tricks anywhere, almost no differentiation between waves) and the focus on impossible airs and tricks.

In my game the waves start, break and end, with different sessions and hollowness, so there's more wave reading involved. Also the focus is on being able to stay on the wave and generate speed, doing cutbacks, snaps, off the lips, etc.