As someone who's pre-18, without the nostalgia bias, I couldn't find the website any uglier, but the guestbook part... That was cute.
It's not supposed to look like that.
[1]https://wackoid.com/game/10-pictures-that-show-why-crt-tvs-a...
Also, yeah. The site was ugly, you're not missing or misunderstanding anything. It's pure nostalgia to those who experienced the web back then, a reminder of a simpler, more ideal time in the internet's life.