Could it be The Cookie Monster?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Cookie_Monster_%28novella%...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Cookie_Monster_%28novella%...
Looks like it's available in The Year’s Best Science Fiction: Twenty-First Annual Collection and at the time I read _Toast_ I was also reading a bunch of these "Years Best Sci Fi" collections. I've snagged this and will give it a read, but I'm almost 100% certain that you nailed it!