Well, it doesn't. The retailer has a team of techs (or an outsourced vendor) rotating between stores, who are cleaning and replacing air filers, checking lubricants, and so on. They could certainly apply occasional changes to settings.
But to the product manufacturer - the remote management feature literally requires less than $2 of hardware. Hell, it might even save money, by removing screens and buttons.
And the person buying the refrigerator wants something that logs and monitors temperatures, for food safety. And they don't know anything about cybersecurity.
So when the manufacturer says that for just a little more they have a remote monitoring option, which not only provides the monitoring needed for food safety but also reduces maintenance costs - it sounds good to them. They don't realise they're signing up for a multi-million-dollar loss when they get hacked and have to throw out a load of products.