A failed experiment in laptop cooling
kevinboone.me
kevinboone.me
I suspect that your setup is doing something, but the thing it's doing is allowing your laptop to sustain a certain performance level for longer. So what I would look at is some performance metric like e.g. peakflops() in a loop, or a video game FPS counter, and compare with and without the external fans.
In other words, with added lane on highways, it’s sociological mechanism, which is slightly less precise analogy.
I'd say that you have two options.
The first is to try to use external fans to force more air through the laptop than the internal fans manage. You'll need high pressure (probably centrifugal rather than radial) fans to achieve this. They'll be noisy.
The alternative, which can use quieter low-pressure fans like the ones you have, is to just ensure that all the air going into the air intakes on the laptop is as cold as possible. That is, make sure the air going in hasn't just come out. And make sure there isn't any more restriction on air flow than the minimum possible, which the raised gap under the laptop will achieve. You basically just want to direct fresh cold air from far away from the laptop towards the air intakes, and pull the air emerging from the air outlets as far away from the laptop as possible. A horizontal breeze flowing across the bottom of the laptop is probably one of the best ways to achieve this.
I've dabbled in this and the one thing that absolutely has to be included is a seal on the edges between the laptop and the stand like so:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/126317216434
Otherwise the air will escape to the sides.
For my home project I used foam tape, but any seal will do.
Regarding cooling I wholeheartedly recommend one Framework 16 owner's journey in making his device maintain 80°C with the CPU going full throttle (aside from other mods):
https://community.frame.work/t/all-the-modifications-ive-mad...
Don't you want it to do that? The air goes upwards, hits the laptop surface, and travels outwards carrying the heat?
If it's sealed, I imagine you would get a very turbulent situation, possibly far noisier, but also one where I can't intuitively picture the airflow and expected cooling flow. I should note I am very, very far from an expert here ;)
Also: thermals in general are vastly more complex and tricky than our intuition tends to tell us (with the article being a great example of it!).
https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Keyboard-Anti-Slip-Compatibl...
I was recommended these by a friend and the ability to easily do that anywhere (and as a nice side-effect get a lovely angle to the keyboard) but still be able to pop the laptop in a backpack easily is amazing. They have been put on every laptop my wife and I have owned for the last 6 years.
[1] this is just example, there's better ones I'm sure. https://www.amazon.com/KLIM-Tempest-Laptop-Cooler-Vacuum/dp/...
The important heat-exchange from the CPU is usually managed by a heatsink and a radial fan, with the grille of the casing designed as fan inlet/outlet.
Blowing/sucking additional air at the inlets doesn't affect the cooling surface of the heatsink, it just blows at the radial fan.
This may make sense if there's a weakness of the radial fan (that heat is building up at the heatsink which the original fan cannot remove).
But it's much more likely that the heat is not distributed well away from the CPU, either to the heatsink (thermal paste) or by the heatsink (weak heatsink design/material).
I'd look into ways to replace the radial fan or the thermal paste
For overpowered CPU that should not be in laptop it won’t help anyway, I had core i9 and best thing to do was to sell it and just swap to core i7 because there was no home made trick to make it better even with metal chassis.
It isn't designed to be used with the lid closed which is what I do 99% of the time. After drilling the performance with the lid closed went up 30%, with the lid open up 5%. Removing the bezel with the lid open gives extra 10% vs normal bezel.
The nice thing is these can be swapped easily (magnets) and come in different colors. I used to have 2 until I stopped caring about my laptop looking weird in public.
The main problem would be powering them. They could potentially draw power from the M.2 connector through an adapter, or soldering to an USB connector, I guess.
I like the idea of a pump curve for a garden water pump. If you pump water without any back pressure (not even a hose connected), the pump will give a certain volume per time that is can move. If you connect a hose and pump upwards, you will reach a max pressure / max height at which no water will flow any more. Both cases are useless, but this is what the manufacturer prints on the box. Your sweet spot is in between. If you pay enough, you will get a datasheet with the pump curve in between these two points.
For simple and cheap PC fans, you are at most given the number of air volume without back pressure. I've not come across a cheap fan that gives a defined backpressure of even a curve.
For your application you would need a fan that can push air through a restriction.
I had success with high rpm server fans. They create pressure, consume 20W of power or more and also make a lot of noise. But in this case - this is not a solution
“Dissimilar” isn’t needed there.
https://www.rotron.com/Resources/Application-Notes/Series-an...:
“When applying more than one fan in a system:
- "n" fans in series will increase pressure "n" times at a given flow rate, with no additional free delivery flow. Fans in series can be useful in high resistance systems.
- "n" fans in parallel will increase flow "n" times at a given pressure level, with no additional shutoff pressure generated. Fans in parallel can be useful in low resistance systems.”
Edit: yes, normal laptop with all the bits under the keyboard and heat pipe going to the lid. I can't find a better source than this patent
https://patents.google.com/patent/US5880929A/en
But I distinctly remember seeing photos of a prototype in something like wired or the register
I also had to buy SODIMM DDR5 RAM modules (just before prices skyrocketed, I got 64 GB for $180), a 2 TB Samsung NVMe SSD, and an RTX 5060. The CPU comes with an integrated GPU, but I disabled it to get better cooling.
I also wanted to replace the CPU cooler with a Noctua one, but the GPU sits too close to the CPU. Maybe someday I'll adapt a liquid-cooling radiator, but that would require 3D printing a custom adapter and making multiple trips to a 3D printing shop for trial and error. That's too much hassle.
And it also might be a problem with the cpu paste and not with air.
I wish there would be only one company that could seriously meet them at their functional high ground.
Even slight increases in temperature is enough to do damage to certain parts of a man, and it's really not good for your legs to have this extremely hot air blasted over it continuously.
[1] https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/guide-macbook-air-heats...
https://videocardz.com/newz/colorful-launches-water-cooled-l...
Just double checking: Did you put the fans in the correct orientation and on the intakes instead of the exits?
for half a year at least, until radiators get clogged with dust and thing requires total disassembly. i'm looking to add metal mesh as filter, see how that works