Human brains are incredibly good at raw memorization of associations. Hoon has about 100 digraphs, and their internal structure isn't random. How hard is to learn 100 characters of Chinese? Perhaps easier than you think.
Nor are there no payoffs. For instance, most languages are very bad at defining large, mostly static hierarchical trees, so when it comes time to write code that generates, say, an HTML page, you reach for a special "template language" DSL. That's not a problem we have in Hoon. Also, most functional languages have a very annoying tendency to crawl off the right side of your screen and disappear, because indentation depth matches functional depth. That's also not a problem we have in Hoon.
So... you pay, definitely. But you also receive.