Is anyone making anchors designed with a notch?
Is anyone making anchors designed with a notch?
I don't think making grooved anchors and cold shunts makes that much sense because in the event of a fall, the rope or carabiner supporting you to that shunt is absolutely not guaranteed to stay in place. I can say I've taken a few 20ft whippers that knocked the protection around.
I think what's much more important is climbers' lucidity on the rock and following established procedures. Whether a piece of protection can support the weight of a large truck or a large truck and some tires is less important than whether a climber followed all the proper procedures to minimize their risk exposure.
Failed equipment accounts for a negligible percentage of all climbing accidents.
However, as a counterpoint, it's rare that people take big dynamic falls on rappel anchors, as you don't usually climb above them nor have the kind of slack when finished with a climb that would cause this. Even so - I still prefer the idea of a simple, crazy strong, anchor.