The End of Cuisine
nytimes.com
nytimes.com
I guess sous-vide is making it into some regular kitchens beholden to the laws of time and space.
Here's an easy example: you can turn any cheese --- any cheese --- into a cheese with the texture and melting properties of American cheese; you heat it, add a little liquid and a little sodium citrate, in a ratio you can find in the books or online. The cheese melts and the citrate instantly emulsifies it, so even a veiny blue or a mature cheddar melts smooth. Pour into a cool metal pan, slice and wrap.
You're not going to make a lot of "airs" and foams and freeze-dried powders and powdered oils (though: the maltodextrin olive oil powder trick is pretty cool to play with), but there's a lot of nuts-and-bolts stuff to modernist cooking that you'll use a lot once you know them.
Available free of charge on torrents
Personally, I think it more than a little ironic that his entire excursion into cooking began by being fascinated with and emulating the techniques of Ferran Adria.
Vive la content revolucion
So you need a pressure cooker. And probably an immersion blender or at minimum a blender of some kind.
I've also done a variety of extractions. Carotene butter (which I think you need for the soup above anyway). This requires little more than a vegetable or herb with fat soluble flavors (like lots of carrot) and some butter and a saucepan. And a juicer. Maybe I'm a weirdo (oh, who am I kidding, I'm a weirdo) but I like carotene butter on ... everything. Its like butter-ketchup, but tastier.
The recipes are not necessarily oriented around generating the maximum volume of food or quantity of food per unit of raw material input. So it takes a lot of carrots to make a large batch of carotene butter. So it does. And its worth it.
A lot of it is ideas and techniques. So the advice on homemade hamburgers was interesting and informative and I was able to successfully employ it. But I didn't "git clone" the recipe, I just kind of fixed up my technique.
Its not necessarily about distilling the flavor of a thing and making it look like something else. Thats more a upscale restaurant thing.
The things I found most intriguing were how little we actually knew about the process of cooking. Like barbeque as an example, it boggles my mind that until modernist cuisine came around we didn't really understand how it worked at a fundamental level. Just a bunch of "well we do this and it works and tastes well", aka we hit a local maxima and didn't seem to want to move off that hill to see if there were higher peaks around by using binoculars.
[0] https://www.chefsteps.com/classes/whipping-siphons/landing
I have little issue with the methodology unless it's unreasonably expensive for unreasonable reasons (and I don't count sous vides here).
But things like molecular gastronomy are almost pure show - have you eaten many spheres or foams with your food? They're basically pointless from the perspective of taste.
You can do encapsulations and "caviars" and stuff in ways that are pointless, and a lot of coattail-following stunt cooks do that. But when Achatz or Dufresne decide to do something, there's usually a very well-thought-out reason for it.
A. That value is overpriced in the market and B. It's more aesthetic than palpable
B. This is a discussion of "taste" and similar preferences. Of course it's aesthetic.
I'm not saying that the package is overvalued, but rather the underlying food that is; after all, it represents but a small - sometimes negligible - portion of the package as a whole.
You are generally correct that leaving in the same phase is not as interesting as changing phase.
I use my circulator and my pressure cooker on a regular basis and play with the siphon from time to time.
In the ingredients department, I picked up a variety of thickeners etc. to experiment with but, to be honest, I haven't done a lot with them.
There are some good ideas and techniques in books like Modernist Cuisine at Home. There are also instructions for making an omelet that would probably take hours. I won't be doing that.
Of course my idea of a perfect meal trends towards amazing Banh Mi from a food truck rather than Kobe Beef fillet mignon, so YMMV.
This reminds me of the Iron Chef intro where we see Masaharu Morimoto eating a hotdog (or something) sitting on a step while reading a newspaper.
As a foodie myself I'm not sure why you have to choose one meal over another. I've lined up for Banh Mi, and warm jam doughnuts being sold from a truck, and I've spent hundreds of dollars on multi-course meals. They were all 'perfect' meals in their own context.
Beyond that, there's a lot of info in there about classical cooking too that is quite informative. You'll improve the performance of your charcoal grill by lining it with foil, for instance. It's neat seeing how proper wok cooking works, even though you can't try it at home because you'll never get a hot enough burner.
Not to mention an unhealthy obsession with triviallities in food, the same way others fixate on model airplanes.
When oven cooking is required, I typically use a variation of Alton Brown's "cast iron pan" technique.
http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/alton-brown/pan-seared-ri...
Many musicians, even famous and successful ones, do just that.
I love food, including expensive, fancy food. I grow vegetables, and I have a CSA where I get local vegetables weekly.
Food like Myhrvold's, to me, is rich, ignorant assholes behaving like rich, ignorant assholes. I say ignorant because while they may be well versed in certain areas, their knowledge is very narrow and skewed. They fancy themselves adventurous intellectuals, when in reality they are precisely the opposite. They are some of the most closed minded people you will find.
Also, for anyone who doesn't already know, Intellectual Ventures (Myhrvold's IP troll firm) is one of the worst. A little Googling on their actions tells you everything you need to know about what kind of person he is.
Not agreeing or disagreeing - genuinely curious.
It is more and more about creating an experience, and ends up being totally different from some sort of "high quality feeding".
So, in the long term, it is simply not possible for serious cuisine to grow more detached from eating than it has been.
Given that, by analogy, for most people "italian night" is ordering dominos pizza. However, it is possible to make a homemade tomato sauce and pour it on homemade fresh pasta made into the shape of homemade ravioli thats stuffed with home made home ground italian sausage. Most people would be surprised / shocked at that effort. That doesn't mean the homemade ravioli is less Italian than ordering Dominos or Dominos is more real because more people "cook" Italian that way.
So yeah, I've spent 5 hours making carrot soup. An entire afternoon. And it was really good.
Most Italians would encourage you to get a lot more specific when pointing at the map :-) Most dishes here are fairly regional, or have a place where they are "best" - like pizza from Naples, even though you can get pretty good pizza anywhere.
People at his level somehow manage to have both a very diverse set of interests and to excel at all of them. It's kind of annoying...I have a very diverse set of interests, and I suck at most of them. How do they do it?
I guess it helps a lot if you are really really rich and have time to do whatever you want for days on end.
I also guess some people would say Nathan Myhrvold is rich partially because he is running a very successful extortion scheme (my mind is not made up.)
http://modernistcuisine.com/2012/05/my-first-memphis-in-may/
Still, a pretty cool story. Here are my recent BBQ efforts.... not going to win any championships, but lots of people in Italy have never had any BBQ and it tastes pretty good:
Interestingly Nathan has a recipe for the 'ultimate burger' http://modernistcuisine.com/2011/12/the-ultimate-burger/
This one works though: http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2014/06/15/style/tmagazin...
> To fight malaria, the lab has invented a “photonic fence” device that identifies, tracks and zaps female mosquitoes (only females bite humans).
Can anyone explain why it's important enough to only kill the females that we might want to add (presumably expensive) sex-identification technology to mosquito zappers that are aimed at eliminating malaria in poor countries?
After a quick search I found this link leading to a page of Intellectual Venture's
http://www.intellectualventures.com/inventions-patents/our-i...
It's pretty cool but unfortunately looks tied to IV. My first guess might be to avoid any criticism that by killing ALL mosquitos, they're harming the ecosystem. I guess that's wishful thinking for a company that I kind of despise even being on their website.
Mosquitoes eat nectar from plants. They only use blood for mating purposes (and the female is the one that has to get it).
So if there are mosquitos around humans, they are almost all female anyway (and the ones that aren't don't bite).
But if you just kill the females at least it cuts whatever damage you're doing to the food supply by half.
Disgusting.