* For updates, use Sparkle framework. [1]
* For licensing, use CocoaFob [2] or write your own.
* For payments, use FastSpring like most other indie shops. [3]
Only other detail is having to write a EULA yourself.
[1] http://sparkle-project.org/
That said, I have apps on the Mac App Store and though it’s effortless, there are absolutely points of frustration. Most notably, there’s no way to refund or interact with unhappy users or users with questions. Additionally, OS X's sandboxing implementation is still buggy in some areas (mostly involving file dialogs and persistence of user-selected file URLs) which makes writing and usage of applications that frequently work with files in arbitrary user-selected files and folders in the user’s filesystem far more frustrating and failure-prone than it needs to be.
As such, I’m looking into moving into self-managed licensing, with a setup like you’ve mentioned (Sparkle/CocoaFob/etc) but rather than using Fastspring, I’ll probably use a personally maintained branch of Potion Store that supports Stripe instead. I’ve never been a fan of in-betweens like Fastspring as a developer or as a user; as a developer, I dislike the lack of control I have and as a user encounters with Fastspring and the likes feels janky, unpolished, and unprofessional.
FWIW, Fastspring is fairly customizable! The value over Stripe is that you don't have to deal with PCI details or worrying about fraud. Also, taxes/VAT in various jurisdictions. (Disclaimer: current customer)
One minor con is that until your store is "vetted" (something like a few months of successful transactions), your checkout form will include mailing address and phone number fields for additional fraud screening.
It's great to have more options of course. I figure I will "graduate" to Stripe if my operation gets to the point where I want even more control.
The seller's phone? Or my customers must enter their phones?