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Agreed, as soon as per-request processing becomes a large portion of the work it will dwarf these types of optimizations.

The article is talking specifically about "simple one-page performant servers that easily get into the 100k requests/second territory", which can see very large throughput increases with direct NIC access.

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dash[1] is a dynamic webserver that uses the logic described in the article (content logic is in Q/KDB).

I have considered writing a userspace TCP HTTP server like the one you suggest, but it would be a demonstration of how to write a state machine and not how to better use the facilities that the operating system provides for writing a server.

[1]: https://github.com/geocar/dash

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