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Is there a desktop client that can VoIP with a mobile client? Or is it just browser-only?

The windows jitsi desktop client I tried didn't seem to be meant for that.

Jitsi Meet is web (and Electron) and mobile. The (older) Jitsi desktop client is not part of the Meet family per se, it's a multiprotocol IM client.

Could you link to the standalone electron app? I can't seem to find it.