The paper is highlighting the dual identity of being Québecois: whenever Canada celebrates anything Québécois it’s Canadian, but when it’s a bad thing then that’s not Canadian.
I remember the terrible jokes at the expense of poutine when I was a kid. How it was a horrible Québec thing. Now the jokes have stopped because poutine is deemed wonderful, but poutine is no longer Québecois, it’s now Canadian.
That’s cultural appropriation, and the reasonable thing to do is to express its existence, internalize the meaning of this act, and move on. No one should stop serving poutine.