I'm also not sure your "modern agriculture" point stands -- are industrial farming methods sustainable over the long scale?
Think about America pre-colonization: a continent filled with ruminants happily munching away, being hunted at sustainable levels. To my mind that is peak sustainability and environmental friendliness.
Whereas a huge environmental problem we have right now is soil depletion, which is largely driven by agriculture.
Cows could actually help solve this problem, because their manure contributes to the health of the soil.
https://www.ted.com/talks/allan_savory_how_to_green_the_worl...
It's far from obvious that a veggie burger would be healthier for the environment than eating cows.
(Disclaimer: haven't watched the ted talk, but familiar with the ideas and seemed like a good summary to link to.)