I really like CSS and it's where I got my start, and used it for a long time, often to make up for not knowing JavaScript.
I don't think CSS is an art thing. I think CSS is pretty simple, but requires an understanding of how CSS works and how browser layouts wotk.
Without that, you're going to have a hard time, but I can't really think of a language where that isn't true, either.
Sometimes I feel like this is the result of people undervaluing CSS, because they "just want to make a colored box" or whatever, but fail to view it as its own language, with its own ecosystem and considerations, placing undue expectations on its simplicity.
If I were to "just make a program" in C, without any knowledge or consideration for how Windows works, how stacks, heaps, memory, and pointers work, and how C works, then I'm gonna have a bad time, and the same goes for CSS, imo.