I'm with you mostly. When I started React close to 5 years ago it was PAINFUL. Coming from mostly jQuery (single library and I'm on my way) to trying to figure out gulp, bower, webpack, babel, etc. The tooling has much improved with the release of `create-react-app`. I can't exactly say the tooling has become better as much as it has been hidden away and the defaults are mostly ideal. Yesterday I had a huge headache trying to figure out why my treeshaking wasn't working (it was bundling 1.5mb of icons into my app). Turns out I was using an old version of `react-scripts` and with it an older webpack which I may have noticed sooner had I hand-built the tooling like the old days of React.
It has become impressively complex with all of the moving parts that are required for a React app these days. Webpack alone is not for the faint of heart with all of the configuration and babel-hell that code (and other files) has to flow through. Without `create-react-app`, I would probably have left React long ago, which would be disappointing because I enjoy the syntax, hooks, readability. I've tried Angular and absolutely hated it, perhaps Svelte would be interesting to me.