The point of the article was not about the quality of the product (cakes) but about a model of small-time abuse in which she has first-time experience. She is allowed to state the situation and give an opinion.
Secondly - comparing BBC journalists to people selling personal lifestyle as a product is insulting. Journalists are in obligation do declare "opinion pieces" if they're writing them, while influencers are basically only doing opinion pieces, and have a business model of convincing manufacturers that their opinions is worth paying for. Their positive opinion is probably worth just a bit more money (yes, that's also an unsubstantiated insult, I just like to blend in with the crowd here).