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Haven't tried it on Big Sur, but maybe `defaults write NSGlobalDomain AppleFontSmoothing -int 1` does the trick?

Thats what did the trick, its hard to say for sure:

defaults write -g CGFontRenderingFontSmoothingDisabled -bool NO

Yea, logic is inverted here.

That was wrong one. This looks better:

defaults -currentHost write -g AppleFontSmoothing -int 0