I learned React to know what it was about and what people were talking about. I think a lot of people get the wrong idea about React. They say the virtual DOM is the most important feature, but I think it's actually the fact that it forces you to componentize your code. And it does this by making non-componentized code very painful to work with, so you have to componentize to be able to have any shot at getting React to work.
But if you already have the componentization mindset, I don't think React really adds anything. As you have said, managing raw DOM operations can be significantly faster. And because you have componentized your code, they are significantly easier to reason about.
The only problem is that working with a medium-sized smash of code is not as painful in vanilla JS as it is in React. So if you've grown your application over time, adding bits and bobs to it piecemeal, you're likely to end up with an application structure that is inherently difficult to manage. Then folks rewrite in React, get forced to componentize, and lo-and-behold, everything is much easier to manage.
At this point, whatever gets you there, gets you there, I guess. Personally, I make VR applications that run in the browser, so I coveteth performance.