The reason turned out to be that Deflate's design makes it very hard to parallelise or SIMD-accelerate. Even the best available decoders are basically forced to process a byte at a time, in a straight line from start to finish, which obviously isn't a good match for modern CPUs. The 3x to 4x decompression speedup here is nice, but I can't help but feel a little sad about how poorly this format is taking advantage of available compute resources. (The ultimate dream would be a format which is so parallel-friendly that you can just send the binary blob to the GPU and decompress it in a compute shader!)
Even a rule like "each row is compressed separately, with a table of row lengths at the beginning of the file" might have been enough - this would have made compression ratios slightly worse, but complexity wouldn't have suffered too much. With only six different chunk types, we could perhaps imagine a branchless decoder where each row's decoding state is stored in its own SIMD lane, and the results for several rows are all emitted at the same time...