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>I really hope this isn't where html5 fonts are headed

Set your browser to override any website with your own font choices. I did sometime back when that eye-rape sunken font styling started showing up too often for my tastes and will never go back. My style on everything means one less thing to bother with when browsing the web, even websites where I didn't have a problem with the font are improved because they're now in my preferred for reading.

It's an awful mess for me in Firefox as well. The letters in the body-text all seem to have a different baseline, and some horizontals are 2px while most are 1px.

Frankly, attempting to read it just makes me feel tipsy.

Apologies, I'll pass on your feedback to the site's designer. Ir's in need of an overhaul anyway.