It's also proof that you can make a simple and pleasant experience with a JS framework, if you focus on the essentials, there's no need to boycott JS entirely in favour of the old web, these frameworks get rid of a lot of the boilerplate when starting from scratch.
I'm an avid supporter of SvelteKit (the framework used on that website) and how they want to make the web less SPA/JS again. In this example, navigation is fast and client side, but can fall back to SSR if JavaScript is disabled, fails to load or hasn't loaded yet. There is no heavy runtime with virtual DOM diffing. Resources are cached and a page reload only sends ~17 kB over the wire on a large blog post, showing an excellent use of Tailwind CSS. It renders on Cloudflare Workers close to the user wherever you are in the world, with zero vendor lock-in if you want to stick it on a VPS.