I don't know what to tell you. You're describing a highly dysfunctional organization with no autonomy and extreme micromanagement. The right answer to all your questions is "leave, and try to work for a good manager in the future."

It is useful to do project planning and task tracking at a high level. But it's counterproductive to open a ticket every time you want to take a breath.

I lead a highly productive team in a challenging technical area. I know roughly what team members are working on in a given week, and that's enough to do coordination. Individual engineers write good pull request messages, and supplement it with design or usage documentation when necessary, and that's more than enough to understand what's going on.