PH really is underrated. It's one of the only Zeldas I've gone back to for repeat playthroughs, and it's fun every time. You're absolutely right that the Ocean Temple is an integrated speedrun experience -- and even then, they really make it fun to go back through old floors to make use of new routes and obtain locked-off treasure chests.

Also, Linebeck is one of my top-three sidekicks out of any Zelda game. He really grows on you over the course of the story.