Ah yeah I forgot Dreamweaver does give you access to the code, in that regard it's similar. But, speaking as a user of Primo (and echoing what I've heard from a lot of other users), I haven't found anything that rides the line between no-code and code quite like this (especially open-source).

Yes Primo offers visual content editing and page building, because that's the only way to make a page flexibly editable by a non-technical user. Abstraction is only a negative thing when it stands in the way of what you want to do. Page building abstracts copy-pasting code. Visual content editing abstracts writing editorial content in HTML. Styling & building is the one thing that's left up to code because it has so many more possibilities than laying out blocks or writing content. So in the sense of building, Primo is the opposite to visual site builders like Webflow, Squarespace, Wix, etc.

I think that's why a new site builder pops up every other day - because they're all attacking the problem from different ends of the spectrum. Some give you more control, but are more complex/professional (like Webflow), while others are easier to use but offer less control (like Squarespace), and others are tailored to particular industries.