The fuel filter is inside the gas tank, but replacing it only involves removing the rear seat (which is easy) to have access to a cap under which the fuel filter lives.
I'm actually planning to tackle that in a few weeks, it looks like a medium-difficulty DIY, with some pitfalls that could make the car not start afterwards if the seal is bad.
Edit: fortunately the awesome ModMini has a video showing how to do just that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCppUQfNZQQ
On an unrelated note, another design change on more recent vehicles I've seen is to fuse the wheel hub and wheel bearing in a single part. You go from a $50 wheel hub and $20 wheel bearing (approximately) to a $200 assembly. While replacing the hub automatically involves replacing the bearing, the reverse is not true, and bearings are a wear part, which WILL have to be replaced eventually.