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Had to read this comment before realizing there more to the page by scrolling down.

Is your browser not open to full width and height? I'm on an 11" MBA, and didn't have to horizontally scroll at all (at 1366px wide), and I could see the end of the fold easily.

Regarding the disappearing scrollbars, I've actually added prompts for scrolling to a website, knowing that Lion, iOS and Android users wouldn't get a hint from visible scrollbars. (My biggest issue is the way horizontal scroll is so easily misinterpreted as a swipe [chrome in lion]. At least a few times a week I inadvertently go back a page...)

I never run my browser at full width.

After about 10 seconds of not finding anything (even with a horizontal scroll), I gave up ... and didn't learn there was more below the fold until I (re)checked the comments here.