> We feign ignorance and show him our JR passes, he patiently writes something like ¥500 on a piece of paper and shows us, we pay it. No anger is expressed, just more of a “silly foreigners” vibe.

That was my experience traveling around Japan.

There's an interesting caveat to it. Back when I studied Japanese, I had a Japanese teacher. But she never lived in Japan - she was born of Japanese parents living abroad.

Anyway, she used to tell me that for her, visiting Japan was a lot less welcoming, because they cut no slack to her. She looks Japanese, sounds Japanese, so everyone expected her to be very mindful of all social norms, and would be harsh to her whenever she made a faux-pas.