Thats at least how I understand it, because to "get" ESS you need to fill out a contact form.
I mean i wouldnt have a problem paying one-time fee of around $100 if that would mean I can get that soft running locally for my groups, but I guess I am not the target potential customer group.
It looks like ESS is mostly managed deployment of otherwise opensourced software like Synapse, Element Web, Element Call, and friends. And I guess they have some backoffice with a glossy web UI for account/user management.
https://github.com/spantaleev/matrix-docker-ansible-deploy is a good starting point!
ESS is a paid, fully managed service by the Element team for ease of use.
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They ship a k8s operator that deploys Synapse, will try that later. Supposedly it's free up to 200 users. But it seems like there's 0 documentation past the README.