Super Dev Mode and Elemental (appear to) take away two of my big complaints with GWT.
The biggest still remains: pounding OO Java into a functional paradigm.
One of my favorite quotes (http://matt.might.usesthis.com/):
"One should always choose the programming language that reduces the impedance mismatch between a problem and its solution."
Java for rich web = impedance mismatch. We're in a polyglot world folks.