I don’t think it’s React that’s responsible for complicated code. I’ve never seen a large GUI app written in any language or toolkit that isn’t super complicated. I’ve dealt with much worse horrors with “vanilla JS” (aka, a home grown framework that does everything a bit worse in every way) than with React or Svelte.
I too have personal project code that is sunshine and roses compared to my Business React day job, but that could also be because my personal project app serves 2 users, is developed by 2 people over a year, and my Business React application serves 100 million users, is developed by ~300 people over 8 years.