Technically TLS 1.3 doesn't encrypt the Client Hello, and indeed the first stanza of the Server Hello isn't encrypted either, although it deliberately doesn't say anything you could use as a third party to make decisions and the rest of a TLS 1.3 Server Hello is encrypted.

The in-progress Encrypted Client Hello (was Encrypted Server Name Indication hence esni in the name of the document) fixes that and you probably have software which uses it though the work to tie up all the loose ends up and publish a document might take some time yet.

Because the middlebox vendors are _so_ incompetent not only does TLS 1.3 need to work around their nonsense, thus proving that it was never useful security (an attacker could always have just done what TLS 1.3 does and it would have bypassed this worthless garbage) some of them screwed up badly enough that the anti-downgrade feature trips, to their credit Google refused to ship a permanent workaround for this, the workaround they shipped in Chrome sunset in about a year & required an explicit key setting, so basically "I acknowledge that I have defective middleboxes and must remove or upgrade them soon" by the local administrators.

But yes, it's noticeable that it was much easier to sell some engineers on "Thanks to TLS 1.3 now this stupid middlebox product won't be able to make your service slower" than say, "Thanks to TLS 1.3 now this stupid middlebox product won't report to the government if you read a Wikipedia article which contradicts its dogma".