> "... unless that's changed drastically in the past year or so ..."

Actually a lot has happened in the last year or so. If you're not aware of it, you could start by looking over the end-of-year post from OCaml Labs [1]. I'm aware that it's difficult to keep a central overview of all the progress but there is a lot of work being done, in many ways, to improve the ecosystem.

[1] http://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/projects/ocamllabs/news/#Dec%202013