While normalized relational databases are indeed slower than key/value stores, they also foster data integrity and the ability to compose arbitrarily complex queries with little effort (assuming one actually groks SQL). One can always optimize trouble spots in a relational database later on (possible even with a KVS), but using a KVS from the get-go is bound to lead to pain.
If we happily use Ruby, Python, et al. while chanting the mantra of premature optimization being bad (and rightly so!), why does this not apply also to databases?