Astronaut3315

Started? My Gmail spam filter has been broken for several years now. Extremely obvious spam regularly ends up in the primary inbox and critical, fully legitimate messages get buried in spam. It’s a major reason why I left for another provider.

Rivian requires a service center to pair a key? That’s a surprise, I would’ve thought they would use the Tesla method of allowing the owner to pair it themselves with a couple taps.

It’d be neat to see this on ESP32-C5, which also has a 5GHz radio. S3 is 2.4 only.

Some of us have a challenging RF environment and rely on the 5GHz band for reliability, even for low data rates.

ESP32-C5 does support 5GHz, so there’s an option out there. It’s also reasonably powerful for a micro and supports Thread, Zigbee, and BLE.

Comcast has Steam server(s) colocated within their network in my immediate area. I’ve observed that less popular downloads tend to connect to external servers in the next state over.

I agree it should be the default, but this TV was readily placed into dumb mode at first powerup. Set your country & language, select dumb mode ("Basic TV"), skip WiFi and most would be satisfied with the result.

Some effort's needed to clean up the homescreen, but you never need to see it. Hand your grandparents a basic programmable remote without extras like the home button. They should be good to go.

Through what means? It’s not on the internet, nor was a connection required for setup.

I bought a Sony OLED a couple years ago. I was able to set it up in “dumb” mode and all the default apps could be manually removed. It acts like a monitor and shows nothing but our Apple TV at powerup.

The home screen’s just a nice static background with a settings app and nothing else. I never see it unless I press the appropriate button, but it’s nice to know there isn’t an onslaught of junk waiting for me if I do.

YMMV but other brands with Google TV may have similar “dumb” capabilities.

Apple’s Wallet app presents this feature as being for “age and identity verification in apps, online and in person”.

I upstreamed a 1-line fix, plus tests, at my previous company. I had to go through a multi-month process of red tape and legal reviews to make it happen. That was a discouraging experience to say the least.

I drove a Genesis G80E for a week and I understand where you're coming from. The regen was a bit awkward and I had the same issues. The Mercedes EQE 350 I rented recently did better there.

Tesla has their regen dialed in quite well. I've read Ford's is good as well, but I haven't had a chance to drive one yet.

I’ve not had that experience. To the contrary, it’s so much more convenient than ICE for our family. Our EV always has a full “tank” every morning.

What’s the problem you’ve been having with yours?

Also not an electrician.

A concern for high current outlets in the US, such as NEMA 14-50, is that they weren't necessarily designed for a large number of plug/unplug cycles. Typically you'd plug your stove in and leave it there for years to decades.

If you use the same 14-50 outlet for car charging, which is not uncommon, the contacts can lose their grip over time. End users may want to take their mobile EVSE with them and incur cycles on the outlet. Properly installed but worn 14-50s have been known to melt or even catch fire under these conditions.

End users should prefer to have their EVSE(s) hardwired or installed with a higher grade outlet like Hubbell or Bryant.

Would someone be expected to sell their home because the builder did something unsavory? Where do we draw the line?

It's not reasonable to expect someone to sell their primary mode of transportation, likely at a loss, for reasons out of their control.

I won’t be. The majority of accounts I follow have already migrated away or at least mirror their posts on other platforms. There’s nothing I need from X anymore.

I did the same with a Sony A80L, which also runs Google TV. I even uninstalled the bundled streaming apps for good measure, although I never see the home screen.

It behaves like a monitor. I never see the TV UI unless I ask for it.

I returned a Crucial P3+ after I discovered a massive performance degradation with Bitlocker. It was slower than spinning rust. Seems these drives have some unresolved firmware issues.

I’ve been happy with Just at our workplace. It lets me focus more on the task at hand instead of Conan / Cmake incantations.

It’s consistent, easy to use and maintain, and keeps all relevant operations in one place.

It also lacks active thermal management. That's more or less a requirement for long battery life.

I have the Cingular version and had forgotten this detail. Sure enough, you’re right- it has a 2.5mm jack on it. How unusual.

These aren’t the same as the Ultra Definition series they mentioned, unfortunately. They lack the dim to warm feature that makes those desirable. RAB is the only manufacturer I’m aware of that makes 3000k dim to warm A19 bulbs for the US market.

The RAB bulbs have a weird stair step warm-then-cool when turning on and off. They also have a huge non-linearity when dimming. That makes the Philips version more desirable, but they’re 2700k.

If only they were available in 3000k. I made an exception for the specific fixture the IKEA bulb ended up in, but our entire home is 3000k throughout.

The old bulb was a Cree, rated at 460 lm, 3000k, 90+ CRI. It used 5.5W.

The IKEA bulb’s rated at 450 lm, 2700k, 90+ CRI. It uses 2.8W. Both are dimmable and I suspect the IKEA bulb has a higher R9 value.

My initial reply was a bit rough around the edges. I've since edited it for clarity.

Adding more LEDs to the design allows them to be underdriven, increasing efficiency and longevity. The driver board and LEDs run cooler that way. Less heat equals less stress on electrolytic capacitors, a common failure point.

There’s only a few bulbs I’m aware of that follow this pattern. The Philips Dubai Lamp takes this to an extreme. A 60W equivalent uses only 3W. Other 60W eq. LEDs tend to be ~3x that. All that heat has to go somewhere.

I just picked up a 40W eq. bulb from IKEA that has double the normal amount of LED strands- they’re unusually long, too. It also uses about half the power of the LED bulb it replaced. I expect it to last quite a long time.

I can barely read my own handwriting. I just don’t have the fine motor coordination for it. In the context of learning per the article, typed notes are more useful to me as I get more out of them.

AT&T sold me a defective new phone once. They replaced it with a refurb, and marked it in their system that I had purchased it that way. They could not be convinced that I should have a 1-year new phone warranty instead of a 90-day refurb warranty.

Wow, that’s even better than my old PNY GTX 465. It was really a 470 that was cut down by the VBIOS. I was able to download 256MB of VRAM, a wider memory bus and some GPU cores on that one.